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脂性肌の仕組みと正しい洗顔方法

洗顔する男

化粧が崩れやすい、顔がテカる、べたつく。こんな症状を改善するために、一生懸命顔の脂をとったり、何度も洗顔をしていませんか?

肌表面が皮脂でべたつくのは、違う原因があるのかもしれません。

皮膚は表面を覆っているだけでなく、外部の刺激から体を守るバリアー機能を持っています。皮膚のメカニズムを知らずに肌表面のことだけを見て対処していては、効果を得るどころか肌を傷めてしまうかもしれません。

人の肌は様々です。誰もが同じようにしていて良くなるのなら、こんなに多くの化粧品であふれていることはないと思いませんか。そこで、本記事では肌の仕組みや脂性肌の洗顔方法をご紹介していきたいと思います。

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肌の仕組み

手洗いする男

まずは基本的な肌の仕組みについて触れていきましょう。肌は表皮、真皮、皮下組織の3つにわかれており、通常私たちが化粧品などでケアをしているのは肌表面の表皮の部分です。表皮には表面を覆う皮脂膜があり、肌の水分の蒸発を防ぎ、外部の刺激から内部を守る働きをしています。

皮脂膜とは、汗腺から出る汗と皮脂腺から出る皮脂が皮膚の表面で混ざり合った天然のクリームのことです。何もしていない状態で肌がしっとりしているのは、皮脂膜が角質層の水分の蒸発を防ぎ、紫外線・寒さ・細菌など皮膚への刺激を防いでいるからです。

脂性肌というのは、肌の水分量は問題ないけれど、皮脂腺から必要以上に皮脂が出て肌表面がべたつく症状のことを指しています。しかし、皮脂が多くても水分が少ないインナードライ肌の人も自分の肌は脂性肌だと勘違いしがちです。そこで、脂性肌とインナードライ肌の違いを比べてみましょう。

脂性肌とインナードライ肌の違い

どちらも肌表面がべたつき、過剰な皮脂が分泌されていることに違いはありません。しかし、肌の内部に限っては大きな違いがあるのです。脂性肌は肌内部の水分が十分に保持されているため、キメの整ったうるおいのある肌なのに対し、インナードライ肌は水分不足で肌のキメが粗く、外部の刺激に弱い性質を持っています。

「脂が多いならとってしまえばいい」と洗顔ばかりしていてはいけない理由がここあります。洗顔は表面の汚れや不要な脂をとるぶんにはいいのですが、その際に必要な脂や水分まで洗い流してしまいます。

肌にはバリアー機能といって、水分不足を感じたときに自助的に皮脂を出そうとする働きがあります。インナードライ肌は、このバリアー機能によって常に皮脂が分泌されている状態です。それなのに、また必要な水分を洗い流してしまえば、皮脂がより分泌されるでしょう。このような悪循環がインナードライ肌では起こっているのです。

脂性肌のための洗顔方法

洗顔は肌表面の汚れや雑菌を取り除く作業。いくら汚れていないと思っても目に見えない汚れは多く存在します。特に皮脂の多い脂性肌、インナードライ肌にとって、洗顔は重要となってきます。

①メイク落としは長くこすりすぎない
脂性肌などのべたべたが気になる人は、一生懸命ごしごしこすりがちです。今は洗浄力のあるオイルタイプよりも洗浄力の優しいミルクやジェルタイプが好まれているので、余計に汚れを落とそうとごしごししがちです。

しかし、ごしごしこすって肌にキズをつけたうえ、メイクがきちんと落としきれないのなら、オイルタイプを使ってサッと落とした方が肌にいいのではないでしょうか。

②洗顔は泡が大切
洗顔は泡だてが大切です。大きな泡だと毛穴のすき間まで届かず、汚れに届きません。細かなたっぷりの泡で肌をこすらないように優しく洗いましょう。もし、泡だてが面倒なら、市販の泡だてネットを使うと簡単に泡が作れます。

③熱いお湯はダメ
洗顔料の泡が残らないように、しっかりとすすぎます。泡が残ると吹き出物の原因になるので注意しましょう。熱いお湯で洗ってしまうと必要な皮脂までとられてしまいます。すすぐときはゆるま湯ぐらいがちょうどいいでしょう。

④何度も洗わない
ベタベタが気になって何度も洗顔をしたり油取り紙を使う人がいますが、これはいけません。過度に皮脂を取ると、肌の水分不足につながり、ますます皮脂分泌を促進させます。

脂性肌かもしれないと思う人は、まず洗顔の回数を増やすよりも洗顔後のケアを意識してみましょう。洗顔後は肌が乾燥しやすい状態です。そこで、洗顔後すぐに化粧水などで肌の水分を補いましょう。肌内部の乾燥しているインナードライの人の肌にはもちろん、脂性肌の人にも有効な対処法です。

このほかにも、油ものの摂取を控える、規則的な生活をおくるなど生活習慣からのアプローチもあります。ベタベタする、テカリが気になるといった脂性肌の人は、皮脂を落とす洗顔だけでなく生活習慣も一度見直してみてはどうでしょうか。

なぜ脂性肌やインナードライ肌などのトラブル肌が増えたのか

昔の人は何もしなくてもきれいだったから今もしなくていい、そう考える方もいます。それではなぜ現代はこんなにも肌のトラブルが多いのでしょうか。

  • 食生活の変化:昔は揚げ物や甘いお菓子も少なく、ほとんどが野菜や雑穀だったのではないでしょうか。肌は血管から栄養を摂取し、活用します。もちろん摂取した油が多いならそれに伴って皮脂は多く出るでしょう。
  • 生活リズムの変化:昔の人は電気もなく、太陽と共に生活をしてきました。しかし今はどうでしょうか。「美肌のためには夜10時~2時に寝るようにしましょう」とわざわざ言われるくらい生活のリズムは変化しています。生活のリズムの乱れは肌だけでなく、自律神経、冷えなど様々なところに影響します。
  • 肌に触れる化粧や空気の悪さ:女性は外出するときに化粧をします。「家に帰ったら化粧を落としましょう」といわれるのは肌にずっと乗せていては良くないものだからです。だからといって、現代ですっぴんのままというのは外に出る以上難しいのではないでしょうか。また、私たちを取り巻く空気も汚染が騒がれていますし、紫外線も昔より強くなっていると言われています。肌への刺激は昔に比べ、多くなっていると言わざるを得ないでしょう。

このような環境に加え、肌は個人差が大きく、この方法で全ての人がよくなります!というものは見つかっていません。そのため、自分の肌を知り、自分に合った対処をすることが大切になるのです。

コラージュA脂性肌用石鹸 100g
持田ヘルスケア (2002-09-24)
売り上げランキング: 2,845

まとめ:脂性肌は洗顔だけじゃダメ

ここまでで肌の仕組みと脂性肌の洗顔についてご紹介してきました。ベタベタする脂性肌にはもちろん皮脂を取る洗顔は有効ですが、肌の仕組みを考えると洗顔をするだけでは脂性肌に対応できません。洗顔後の肌ケア、食生活、規則的な生活を意識してみる必要があるでしょう。

せっかくメイクをしてもすぐ崩れる、顔がテカると気分も上がりません。そこで、本記事の内容を参考にして、きちんとした洗顔でしっかりと汚れを落とすことはもちろん、肌の仕組みの面から脂性肌対策をしていきましょう。

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