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リサイクル 注意
リサイクル 注意

リサイクルショップの古着は高値買取されたお宝

リサイクル

「ヴィンテージっていっても結局は古くさいおさがりでしょ」。いえいえ、ちょっと待って下さい。着用済み衣類のことを「古着」、中でも海外から輸入された一点ものの古着を「ヴィンテージ」とよぶんですよ。ほら、ちょっと感じ方がかわってきたでしょう。

アメリカやヨーロッパでも人気の古着、時代に左右されずに個人の趣味を満たしてくれるヴィンテージアイテムを着用する人をみると、なんだか特別な感じをうけませんか。

古着は、世界大戦時代の軍服であったり、生産終了となった洋服であったりと、その逸品さには高い評価があるのです。しかも人気に拍車がかかり、プレミアム価格では購入しづらい人たちのために、最近ではユーズトファッションや古着風、ヴィンテージ風というアイテムも増えてきているのです。

1990年代のブーム以降、古着屋は以前よりは少なくなったものの、専門店では路面店が多いことに気付くと思います。路面店は、見渡しの良い幹線道路沿いではなく、商業施設の多い都会の中にひっそりと佇んでいるので、まるで秘密の基地にたどり着いたようです。リサイクルショップをみると、ヴィンテージコーナーを設けている店舗もあり、まるでお宝倉庫です。

ヴィンテージに興味をもつからこそ、手軽に手に入れたいのですが、納得できる商品はそれだけ買取価格も高く入手が困難なのも事実です。

そこで、高価買取された古着を、いかに上手に手に入れることができるのか考えていきましょう。

スポンサーリンク

ヴィンテージはどうしてあんなに高いの?

服

古着で代表的なのは、1948年にアメリカの廃坑から発見された「リーバイス501ジーンズ」です。かなりの高値がつき、数百万で取引されたこともありましたが、その後姿を消し、現在では復刻版が出回っています。

しかし、1点ものだというだけで高価格になるのはなぜでしょう。

1. 売り手は入手が難しい

ヴィンテージとは主に1960年代までのものなので、大型の量販店が世界中に増え、ユニクロのように、海外にまで進出する企業もでてくる時代になると、市場も変わってきます。大量生産時代だからこそ、自分らしい商品を求める消費者の動向に影響もあって、ニューヨークやパリなどのファッションエリート都市とよばれる地域では、ヴィンテージ商品が不足がちになってきました。

また国内では、海外商品は日本規格Lサイズ以上の洋服が多いので、日本人の体型にあうサイズを探すのも至難の業なのです。富裕層の寄贈や遺産相続などをきっかけにヴィンテージ古着が掘り出されるチャンスがあるので、買い手は宝探しのために十分な情報が必要となります。しかも実際に手にとって細かくチェックする必要があるため、ネットではなく足を使って宝探しの旅にでかけなくてはなりません。

2. ヴィンテージ古着の宿命!取り扱いが難しい

古ければ良いという訳ではなく、価値のあるデザイン・素材などが求められます。しかしその分取り扱いが難しくなります。年相応のダメージを受けているのは当然ですが、生地がほつれやすくなっていたり、色落ちしやすい状態になっていたりするので、洗濯すら困難です。また当時よりも紫外線が強くなった現代では、紫外線による日焦けも起こりやすくなっています。

バイヤーも買った後の保管方法を熟知していないと、いざ店舗に並べたときに魅力的な商品でなくなる可能性もでてくるため手間を掛ける必要があるのです。

3. コストパフォーマンスが難しい

1990年代は空前の古着ブームで、リーバイス501やビッグEをはじめヴィンテージジーンズが流行っていましたが、環境やムダに対する意識が高くなったいま、あえて高い古着を購入する人も限られてきました。それに加えて「ヴィンテージ風」という言葉が登場し、本物に似せた新品の商品が多く市場に出回っています。

そうなると「利益拡大」と「コスト削減」を実現するために、それだけ高い買取をせざるをえなくなってくるのです。
Elastic

だけども、やっぱり高すぎる!査定方法はどうなってるの?

古着でもいろいろと種類があり、買取査定するときは主に以下をチェックします。

  • デットストック
  • 大戦モデル
  • 月桂樹ボタン
  • オンス(oz)
  • 単色タグ
  • マチ
  • ラグリンスリーブ

古着ヴィンテージ用語集

リーバイスの場合は、フラッシャーがついているかどうかで、その価値はグンと変わってくるようです。ほかにも、50年代初頭に開発されたボーリングシャツは、その襟の縫い方や刺繍によって、人気のあるチャンピオン製のリバーシブルTシャツは、タグがあるかどうかでかわってきます。首元なので切り取って着用していた人もいるようですね。

いざ、どこで手に入れようか

このように厳しい査定を経て高価買取された古着ですが、バイヤーの知識によっては思いがけない高値になってしまう場合もあります。

また、歴史のあるアイテムなだけに、バイヤーによっては「古着」という言葉ではなく「ヴィンテージ」と呼びたがる人もいます。店舗の入り口や宣伝紹介文でも、ユーズドファッションが主体の店舗なのに「ヴィンテージショップ」と名付けているシところも多いので、本物を手に入れたい人はしっかり勉強しておくことが大切です。

以上の知識を持って、取り扱いのある店舗の特徴をみていきましょう。

ヴィンテージ古着専門店

代表的なのが専門店です。電車やバスを利用して行ける街の中にあることが多いので、買い物ついでや散歩の途中にふらっと立ち寄ることができます。店舗のスタッフや店長がブログを書いているショップも多く、お店のリアルな商品情報を知ることができます。また大型のリサイクルショップよりも、細かな情報のやりとりができることも特徴です。

また、リサイクルショップとは違い、直接海外から買い付けているショップがほとんどなので、質の良い商品が手に入る利点は十分にあります。

しかし反面、駐車場を完備していない店舗も多く、住んでいる地域によっては周囲にない場合もあります。また、古着が若者のファッションアイテムとして位置づけられているので、リサイクルショップのようにお買い物にきたお客さんがついでにみていく・・・なんてことはありません。本当に買いたい人しか入店しないのが専門店です。

ネットショッピング

ネットだと安く変える根拠は、家賃負担を省き、常在する必要がないことにより、必要経費がおさえられ、その分商品価格に響いてくるからです。オークションやショッピングサイトは簡単に利用することができますが、実際に商品を手にとってみることができないのが最大の弱点です。ヴィンテージだとなおさら、微妙な色合いや生地のよれなどが重要になってくるのです。またオークションでは出品者の意向がありますので、妥当な価格かどうか調べる必要もあります。

しかし、あちこちの店舗をみることができるのですから、商品を比較しやすく、昼夜問わずいつでも商品を吟味することができます。それだけでなく、海外のサイトから直接購入することもできるのです。ネットショップを構えている専門もあり、簡単に購入できるので、予算をオーバーしてしまうほどの買いすぎには気を付けましょう。

街中の宝箱 リサイクルショップ

いまではリサイクルショップがあちこちに乱立しており、ブランド品でさえ良い状態で安く手に入れることができるようになっています。扱っている品物の種類が多く、中古保証を行っている店舗があるのが特徴です。季節の変わり目や、売れない商品は値下げをすることがよくありますが、ヴィンテージ古着は流行に左右されず、劣化が激しくても、それは価値あるものとして欲しい人は購入する傾向にありますので、値段が下がることは殆どありません。

しかし、大型チェーン店の場合、店舗間で短いスパンで商品をまわしているので、県外においてある商品も、近くの店舗に入荷する可能性があるのが最大のメリットです。足繁く通って一点をみつけましょう。

古着ブームの火付けとなったアメリカにおいて、エイズとホームレス支援団体に協力する団体が、一般人から寄与してもらった古着を販売し、擁護活動として利益の一部を寄付することで、ヴィンテージ古着を安く販売しているボランティア店舗もありますので、知識として得ておくのもよいですね。

VINTAGE LOVER BOOK (〜大人のヴィンテージMIXは海外スナップがお手本〜)
インフォレスト (2012-05-30)
売り上げランキング: 415,981

まとめ:リサイクルは不要品ではない!ヴィンテージ古着デビュー

長引く景気の低迷とともに、消費者の動向にも変化が現れ、「安くて良いもの」を好むようになりました。ヴィンテージを含む古着市場も同様の状況となりつつあり、リサイクルショップにさえ特設コーナーができるほどになりました。時代も進めば市場もかわってきます。

しかし、アメカジブームで青春を過ごした世代は、ある程度になると離れていく人もいます。消費者にとって良い商品ばかり並べられている店舗よりも、自分にふさわしい商品が並べられている店舗を好む消費者も増えてきました。ブームが過ぎた今、いかに若年層を中心に新規顧客を得るためには、インターネットで情報を拡散させていくのが重要課題となってきます。

時代はインターネットを利用することで、旬のリアルな情報を得ることができる時代なので、路面店がネットショッピングをしているなど統合されている場合も多くあります。

まとめ

リサイクル市場は競争中です。リサイクルショップでは季節の変わり目に在庫一掃セールがよく開催されていますし、一般的に古着屋よりリサイクルショップのほうが安価で取引されているようです。専門店で購入した人が買取してもらった商品もありますし、もしかしたら、あまり世に出回っていない古着が掘り出し物として入手できるかもしれませんよ。

一点ものであるヴィンテージ古着、自分らしいものを探してみませんか。

スポンサーリンク

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