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メイク初心者必見!メイクの基本を解説

皆さんはいつ頃からメイクをしていますか?そして、そのメイクは、いつどこで覚えましたか?高校生くらいになると、お母さんのメイク道具を借りたり、自分で少しずつ揃えたり見よう見まねでメイクを覚えている人も多いかと思います。

いざ、きちんとメイクについて知ろうと思っても、何を揃えて、どんなふうに始めたらいいか…教えてくれる所は以外と少ないのです。雑誌のメイク特集は既にメイクをしている人向けに、新しいメイク方法や新しい化粧品を紹介するものばかりです。

初心者の人も、今まで我流でメイクをしていた人も、まずはメイクの基本をきちんと理解しておきたいですね。そこから自分に合ったメイク法を探して行ってください。

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そもそもメイクとは

メイクとはメイクアップ(make up)の略で、美しい顔を作り上げる、という意味からきています。早ければ高校生くらいからメイクに興味を持ち出し、大学生や社会人になるとほとんどの女子はメイクをしているはずです。

メイクをすることは、服装と同じく、ちゃんと装いを整える意味があります。冠婚葬祭ではノーメイクは失礼にあたり、その場に合わせたメイクをすることがマナーとなります。

普段メイクをしない人も、女性のたしなみとして、最低限のメイクに関する知識はもっていたいものですね。

ベースメイク

2
ベースメイクとは、その名の通り、顔のベース(土台)に関わるメイクです。肌に最初に乗せる化粧品がベースメイクです。

「ファンデーションのこと?」と思うかもしれませんが、ファンデーションを塗る前に、肌の土台を整えるところからメイクは始まります。具体的には、洗顔した後の肌を基礎化粧品で整えることを指します。

基礎化粧品とは

3
メイクをしていない人でも、基礎化粧品は付けている人が多いかと思いますが、一応解説しておきます。

基礎化粧品は化粧水→乳液→クリームまたはオイル、という流れになります。実際はどれかを省いたり、別のアイテムを加えたりということもありますが、基本はこのようになります。

基礎化粧品の目的は、肌の保湿とその状態のキープです。洗顔後の肌は乾燥しやすい状態になっているので、まず、肌と親和性の高い化粧水を最初に付けます。化粧水はどれも肌への浸透が高いものが多く、それだけでも保湿効果はありますが、水をベースとしている性質上、そのままでは水分が乾燥していまいます。

そのために、化粧水の次に乳液で更に潤いと油分を足し、最後にクリームまたはオイルで蓋をするというステップになります。

肌がしっとり潤った状態でないと、ベースメイクは上手く行きません。まずは、素肌の状態をしっかり整えるところからスタートしましょう。

化粧下地

ファンデーションを塗る前に、一手間加えたいのが下地です。下地とはファンデーションのりをよくするために、肌に塗るものです。

乳液状やクリーム状になったものが多く、肌のシミやくすみをカバーしたり、赤みを消したり、紫外線をブロックしたりといろいろな機能がありますので、自分に合ったものを選んでください。

ファンデーションに紫外線カット機能がついているものが多いですが、ファンデーションは落ちやすいので、下地の段階でしっかり紫外線カットをしておくことが大切です。

ファンデーション

下地が整うといよいよファンデーションを選びます。ファンデーションには大きくわけて以下の物があります

・リキッドタイプ 一番オーソドックスで種類も豊富です。伸びがよく、適度なカバー力があります。

・パウダータイプ つけ心地がさらっとしていて、ナチュラルメイクなどを好む人は、パウダーが肌への負担も少ないです。携帯にも便利で化粧直しには必須です。

・クリームタイプ 油分を多く含むので、乾燥肌の人など、しっかり保湿も兼ねたい人に向いています。カバー力もあるので、シミやくすみの気になる人にもオススメです。

ファンデーションはタイプによってカバー力や仕上がりが随分違ってきます。自分の好みに合わせて選ぶのがいいでしょう。

また、ファンデーションは色選びが最も重要です。よく、手の甲に見本を乗せて色を合わせている人がいますが、手の甲と顔は随分色が違います。あくまで顔の肌の色に合わせることを基本としてください。また、市販されている色がどうしてもしっくり来ない場合は、濃い目の色と薄い目の色を混ぜて使うなどして、肌に合う色を探してください。

リキッドやクリームタイプのファンデーションを使った後は、フェイスパウダーを使うと仕上がり良くなります。フェイスパウダーにはシルクやパールなど光を乱反射させる成分が入っているので、しみやくすみなどを目立たなくしてくれる作用があります。

部分メイク・アイメイク

アイブロウ(眉)

ベースが整えば、次はアイメイクです。アイメイクはまず、アイブロウ(眉)を整えることから始めます。眉が短い人、太い人、様々ですが、そのままできれいな眉を保っている人は少ないのが現実です。眉の形は顔全体のバランスを取るのにとても重要なので、まずは自分に合った眉の形を探す所から始めましょう。基本は小鼻の端と目尻を結んだ線の延長上に眉尻が来るようにします。

まず、目指したい形を決めて、不要と思われる眉毛は眉バサミでカットしていきます。眉カットが終わったら、足りない部分をアイブロウペンシルで足していきます。アイブロウペンシルも色選びが大切です。眉の色より一段階明るい色を選ぶと若々しく見えるのでおスメです。

アイシャドウ

6
アイシャドウはまぶたに陰影を付けて立体感を出すためのパウダーで、目の大きさを際立たせる役割があります。影の部分に暗い色、立体感を出したい所にハイライト(明るい色)を入れます。アイシャドウのパレットにはブラシがついていますが、つけた後は指でなじませるようにすると自然に仕上がります。

アイライナー

アイライナーとはまつげの際に黒いラインを入れることで、黒目を大きく見せる事ができます。大きな黒目は誰もが憧れるものですが、アイラインの入れ方はコツが合って、間違ってしまうと、不自然な瞳になってしまいます。

ペンシルタイプ、リキッドタイプなどがありますが、初心者の人はペンシルタイプを選ぶといいでしょう。線がブレにくいので、失敗しにくいです。色は真っ黒よりもこげ茶や茶色を選ぶと優しい印象に仕上がります。

マスカラ

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マスカラとは、まつげにつけることで、まつげを太く、長く見せるものです。ファイバー入りのものはまつげ全体にボリューム出るので、つけまつげを付けたような効果があります。

付け過ぎるとわざとらしい感じになってしまうので、最初は目尻の方だけ付けてみるのがオススメです。こちらもカラーは真っ黒よりは、こげ茶や茶色のほうが自然に仕上がります。

部分メイク・チーク

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チークはその名の通り、頬に赤みを加えるために付けるパウダーのことです。ファンデーションを塗った後の肌は赤みが足りないことが多いので、頬の血色悪く見えてしまいます。チークを入れることで、顔がぱっと明るくなり、若々しい印象になります。

チークは大きくわけて、ピンク系とオレンジ系のものがありますが、基本は肌色に合わせます。イエローベースの人や色黒の人はオレンジを、ピンクベースの人や色白の人はピンク系を選ぶと肌なじみが良いです。

部分メイク・リップ

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リップとは口紅のことで、メイクの仕上げに付けます(先に付けてしまうと、他のメイクの時に、手につけたり、取れてしまったりするため最後に付けます)。

よく口紅をそのまま塗る人がいますが、出来ればリップブラシでしっかり輪郭を取ってから、その中を埋めるようにしましょう。口紅は、肌色を基準に選びますが、洋服に合わせることが大切です。

口紅はつけた後に、必ずティッシュで押さえます。そうすることで、にじみをなくし、グラスなどにつきにくくすることが出来ます。

メイク用語解説

メイクを始めるに当たって、わかりにくい用語を説明しておきますね。

・アイホール:まぶたを閉じた時にできる眼球の膨らみを指します。眼球のすぐ外には骨があるので、骨との際がアイホールの外周になります。アイシャドウを入れるときは、アイホールの膨らみに合わせて立体感を出すと自然に仕上がります。

・コントロールカラー:ファンデーションの下地のことで、肌の赤みや黄色みなど、もともとの肌の色を押さえるために、別の色を足すことで、自然な肌色に近づける為のものです。

・コーンシーラー:シミやそばかすなどを隠すためにファンデーションを塗る前に、その部分をカバーするように付けます。肌色と同色か少しだけ暗い色を選ぶと自然に仕上がります。

・BBクリーム、CCクリーム:BBは「Blemish(気になる部分)Balm(保護)」という意味で、シミやくすみなどをカバーできる、ファンデーション機能をもったクリームという意味です。CCは「Color(色) Correction(補正)」の略で、肌の赤みなどを目立たなくするファンデーション機能を持ったクリームという意味です。

・グロス:口紅に光沢や艶を与えるためのアイテムで、口紅の上から使ったり、単独で使ったりします。立体感のある唇に仕上げることが出来ます。

まとめ

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ここに挙げている言葉をすべて理解すれば、メイクの基本に関しては、まず間違いありません。雑誌のメイク特集を見ても随分と理解できるはずです。色々と自分で研究してみてください。

なかなか上手く行かない人は、思い切って化粧品カウンターへ行ってみるのもいいでしょう。化粧品カウンターで化粧品を買うと、メイクの仕方を教えてくれるはずです。それ以外にも肌の状態のチェックや、似合うカラーの診断などもしてもらえるので、上手く利用してみるといいでしょう。

「たかがメイク、されどメイク」で、メイク一つで印象は驚くほど見違えます。大人の女性の身だしなみとして、メイクのできる人になってくださいね。

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