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その化粧品は大丈夫?!化粧品を購入する前にチェックしたい成分とは。

3

化粧品を購入する際、箱の裏の表記をチェックしていますか?

ずらっと並んだ全成分を見て、思ったより多くの成分が含まれていることにびっくりする人も多いかもしれません。成分表記を見ても、馴染みのないカタカナがいっぱいで、一体何に気をつけたらいいのがわかりにくいですよね。

化粧品の成分とはどんなものがあるのか?どんなことに気をつけたらいいのか?トラブルを防ぐために、どんなことに気をつければいいのかをまとめてみます。

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化粧品の成分とは?

化粧品の成分には大きく分けて、

1 直接肌に機能する有効成分(保湿剤、紫外線吸収剤、収れん剤など)

2 液体や個体、ゲル状など形状を維持するための基材(水や油脂、界面活性剤など)、

3 使用感をよくするための成分(安定剤、増粘剤、香料など)

4 そして品質を保つために添加されているもの(防腐剤、防カビ剤 香料など)

が含まれています。

全成分の表示が義務付けられていて、配合されている量が多い順番に記載さています。(ただし、含有量が1%以下のものは順不同に掲載されています)

化粧品には多くの合成化学物質が含まれています。それらは化粧品の使用感を良くするために必要なため使用されていますが、場合によっては肌にトラブルを生じさせる事があります。

特に気をつけなければならない人は?

化粧品に含まれる多くの成分は、厳しいテストやチェックを受けて製造されているので、すぐに身体に大きな影響を与えるものではありません。

ただし、アトピーなどアレルギー体質の人や、妊婦さん、生理前から生理中の人などは普通の人より肌が敏感になっているので注意が必要です。

新しい化粧品を使用の際は必ずその成分をチェックして、肌に刺激のある成分や前にトラブルを起こした成分が含まれていないかをチェックしましょう。その上でパッチテストなどを行って、少しの量から使用することをおすすめします。

パッチテストとは腕の内側など目立たない部分に新しく使う化粧品を少量のせ、数時間~一日様子をみてから使用を開始するというものです。

もっとも注意が必要。化粧品に含まれる「界面活性剤」とは。

「界面活性剤」という言葉を耳にしたことのある人は多いと思います。界面活性剤とは水と油のように混ざり合わない物質の境目にはたらきかけて、2つの物質をなじませる働きを持つ薬剤のことをいいます。

化粧品に使われる目的は

様々な目的で使用されていますが、主なものは以下のとおりです

1 油分のバリアを緩めて有効成分を浸透しやする。

2 油性の成分と水性の成分をなじませて、一つの液体にすることで肌なじみを良くする。

3 油分を含む化粧品を洗い流す。

4界面活性剤と聞くと肌に悪いイメージがありますが、化粧品の質を良くするためには無くてはならないものでもあります。ではどういう理由で界面活性剤に気をつけなければいけないのでしょうか。

界面活性剤が危険な訳

界面活性剤が肌に悪い影響をおよぼすと考えられているのは、肌の油分を必要以上に落として肌のバリア機能を弱くしてしまうからです。

よく身体の洗い過ぎは良くないと言われますが、皮脂には肌の乾燥を防いだり、外からの異物の侵入を防いだりといった重要な役割があります。界面活性剤の働きが強すぎると、肌のバリアが崩れ様々な物質が肌に直接浸透してしまうため、アレルギーなどを起こしやすくなるといわれています。

シャンプーやクレンジングに含まれるタイプの界面活性剤は特にこの作用が強いので注意が必要になります。また、界面活性剤には皮膚への残留性や発がん性の高いものが多く、その点でも危険性が指摘されています。

特に気をつけたい界面活性剤

1 ラウリル硫酸ナトリウム、

化粧品、シャンプーなどに含まれ皮脂などを洗い流す作用が強いです。分子量が小さいため肌の奥深く前浸透しやすく、肌への刺激が強いと言われています。同じ働きを持ちつつ、分子量を大きくして、肌への負担を減らしたのが、ラウレス硫酸ナトリウムです。名前は似ていますが、こちらのほうが安全性は高いです。

2 ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル硫酸エステルナトリウム、ポリオキシエチレンウリルエーテル硫酸塩

化粧品(クレンジング)などに使われ、皮脂や化粧品の油膜を洗い流す目的で使われます。肌への影響が大きく、危険度の高い界面活性剤といえます。

3 ポリエチレングリコール

保湿剤としてクリーム、乳液、口紅などに含まれます。発がん性が指摘されています。代表的なものを挙げましたが、その他にも界面活性剤の種類は数百にのぼると言われています。名前を覚えるのはなかなか難しいですが、成分名を入れるだけで、その特性や危険性を調べられるサイトがあるので、気になる人はチェックしてみてくださいね。

bihada-mania

化粧品の添加物。防腐剤として使われる成分の危険性

化粧品は手にとって使用する事が多いため、開封するとすぐに雑菌にさらされる事になります。常温で保管しているとその雑菌が増殖して化粧品の成分が変質したり、腐敗したりするため、何らかの防腐剤が添加されていることがほとんどです。以下に、防腐剤の中で危険度が高い成分を挙げてみます。

1 パラベン

発がん性や、染色体異常を起こす可能性などの危険性が指摘されています。危険な成分として広く知られているので、今では添加されることが減っています。「パラベン不使用」とわざわざ表記されることも多い成分です。

2 安息香酸

抗菌性の強い物質で発がん性が指摘されています。

3 デヒドロ酢酸ナトリウム

カビや酵母菌への効果が高い成分です。

4 フェノキシエタノール

パラベンに変わる防腐剤として、最近多用される様になりました。パラベンに比べると毒性が低いと言われていますが、殺菌力が弱いため結果的に使用される量が多く、咽頭炎や咳などを起こすことがあると報告されているので注意が必要です。

旧表示指定成分とは?「無添加」化粧品安全なの?

1970年代に化粧品によるトラブルが相次いだため、旧厚生省が特に表示することが義務付けられたため、102の成分は「旧表示注意を要する102の成分について表示を義務化することを決めました。その後、2001年に化粧品はその全成分を指定成分」と呼ばれるようになりました。

「無添加」の表示は旧表示指定成分が無添加である、という意味で使われ始めましたが、薬事法では厳密な「無添加」の定義がなされていないのが実情です。そのため「防腐剤無添加」「香料無添加」などと一部の成分が無添加なだけでも「無添加」と表記することが可能になっています。パッケージの「無添加」はすべての化学成分が無添加というわけではないので注意が必要です。

また防腐剤無添加の化粧品は開封後冷蔵庫での保管が必要なことが多く、常温保管など保管状況によっては成分が腐敗することがあります。腐敗した成分によって肌を傷めることもあるので、防腐剤無添加の化粧品は取扱には特に注意が必要です。

肌に良いはずの成分でアレルギーも。

ヒアルロン酸、プラセンタ、ビタミンC誘導体といった、肌に有効に働きかける成分が、トラブルの原因となることがあります。特にアレルギー体質の人は注意が必要で、使用の際にはパッチテストを行うことをおすすめします。もし、皮膚に赤みやかゆみが出た場合は何らかのアレルギー反応である可能性が高いので使用を中止しましょう。

また、ある特定の成分の高濃度を謳った化粧品も多く販売されていますが、最初はお手持ちの化粧水などで薄めるなどして、肌への刺激をチェックしてから規定量を使用するようにしましょう。

自分の肌は自分で守ろう。

新しい化粧品は次々と発売され、それぞれに魅力的な成分が配合されています。効能を持つ成分だけでなく、防腐剤など一緒に含まれる成分も肌につけていることをお忘れなく。含まれる量は微量でも、毎日継続して使用すると肌への影響は大きくなっていきます。

自分の肌の状態を見極め、なるべく肌に負担のある成分を避け、良い成分はその恩恵を最大に受けられるよう、化粧品を選びたいですね。購入前に様々な成分について調べられるサイトや使用感についての口コミサイトなど利用するのもいいでしょう。

また多くの化粧品会社はお客様相談窓口を設けているので、気になることがあれば問い合わせてみることもできます。口に入れる食べ物の農薬や添加物を気にするように、化粧品の成分についても目を光らせて、大切なお肌を健やかに保ってくださいね。

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